Road to Nowhere

Cutting across America’s heartland, US‑83 remains a must-do long-distance byway—transnavigating this broad, odd nation without once grazing a conventional tourist destination.

Pierre

The second smallest and by far the sleepiest state capital in the country, Pierre (pop. 13,646; pronounced “PEER”) is an odd amalgam of South Dakota characteristics. Part farm town, part railroad town, and best of all, part river town, Pierre accurately embodies South Dakota’s dominant activities. Located at nearly the geographic center of the state, quiet, easy Pierre is filled with natural attractions and totally lacking in the usual power-broker trappings of other state-capital cities.

Pierre’s one not-to-be-missed stop is the excellent South Dakota Cultural Heritage Center (900 Governor’s Dr., 605/773-3458, daily, $4 adults), built into the side of a hill on the north side of town. A startling and beautiful structure, it is designed to be a modern evocation of a traditional, energy-efficient Native American dwelling. Inside, the museum has the usual interpretive historical displays of native and pioneer cultures, with a focus on the Sioux tribes and the battles for the Black Hills region. A glass case holds the actual lead plate the brothers Louis-Joseph and Francois Verendrye, the first Europeans to explore what’s now South Dakota, left behind when they claimed the entire territory for France in 1743.

At the center of town, the state capitol grounds are a verdant island of tranquility with an arboretum, walking trails, and the Flaming Fountain Memorial, dedicated to South Dakotans who have fought for their country in time of war. The fountain sits on a lake that is home to thousands of migrating winter waterfowl.

For travel-weary road hogs, especially those traveling with children, the coolest museum has to be the hands-on South Dakota Discovery Center (805 W. Sioux Ave., 605/224-8295, daily, $4 adults), in the old Pierre Municipal Power & Light building, with loads of science exhibits and an aquarium full of Missouri River fish.

Museums aside, nature is really what draws folks to Pierre. Bordering the town to the south is the long LaFramboise Island Nature Area, a perfect place to while away time, recuperating from the drive along the beautiful bay.

Pierre Practicalities

The nicest place to eat is La Minestra (106 E. Dakota Ave., 605/224-8090), a surprisingly cozy and elegant bistro in a restored 1880s building that during its storied history has housed a funeral parlor, a card room, and a country western saloon. The sophisticated Italian specialties make this one of the nicest restaurants you’ll find along the 100th meridian. There’s also a pretty good steakhouse next door, Mad Mary’s (605/224-6469). If beef is what you live for, you’ll also want to try the local landmark Myril Arch’s Cattleman’s Club Steakhouse (605/224-9774), one of the country’s great cowboy haunts, six miles or so east of town along the river via Hwy-34.

There are the usual assorted motels on US-83 as it swoops in from the north and follows the wide landscaped boulevards. West of the state capitol building, you’ll find lots of locally owned places: the Governor’s Inn (700 W. Sioux Ave., 605/224-4200 or 877/523-0080, $72 and up) is at the top end of the price and comfort scale, and this same can’t-miss-it main drag holds a popular Days Inn (520 W. Sioux Ave., 605/224-0411, $70 and up).

South Dakota Cultural Heritage Center (900 Governor’s Dr.)
South Dakota State Capitol (500 E Capitol Ave.)
South Dakota Discovery Center (805 W. Sioux Ave.)
LaFramboise Island Nature Area
La Minestra (106 E. Dakota Ave.)
Mad Mary’s (110 E Dakota Ave.)
Myril Arch’s Cattleman’s Club Steakhouse (29608 SD-34)
Governor’s Inn (700 W. Sioux Ave.)
Days Inn (520 W. Sioux Ave.)