At the sleepy hamlet of Trempealeau (pop. 1,435), the GRR would have you zigzag right through town, but detour a block down toward the river’s edge to find the Historic Trempealeau Hotel, Restaurant & Saloon (608/534-6898, $46-140), sole survivor of an 1888 downtown fire—maybe that’s why the whole joint is smoke-free. The hotel dining room offers a surprisingly eclectic menu, from steak and seafood to burgers and vegetarian dishes; just head for the neon sign reading “Delicious Food.” The rooms are nice (and cheap). The hotel also hosts an excellent concert lineup throughout the summer featuring bands you’ve heard of (Steppenwolf and Asleep at the Wheel have appeared more than a few times) as well as the Reggae Fest the second weekend of May. There are more than 100 miles of paved bikeways and rail-trails that pass from town to nearby Perrot State Park, which has lodging to rent or even canoes and kayaks for hardy souls desiring to relax along the five-mile Long Lake Canoe Trail.