South of Brainerd, the GRR speeds along Hwy-371, which yearns to be an interstate for the 30-odd straight miles it takes to reach Little Falls. Exceedingly flat and awash in a sea of corn, the region gives no hint of the Mississippi River except at Crow Wing State Park (218/825-3075, $5 per car). Indigenous people, missionaries, fur trappers, and lumberjacks made Crow Wing a thriving settlement until the 1870s, when the forced removal of the Native Americans and the shift of trade to the rail crossing at Brainerd turned Crow Wing into a ghost town. These days only a cemetery and a single surviving home remain around the old town’s site, while trails, a picnic area, and campsites spread out beside the confluence of the Mississippi and Crow Wing Rivers.