Between Hoquiam and Raymond, US-101 cuts inland from the coast, while an alternative route, Hwy-105, loops to the west past miles of cranberry bogs (and occasional wild elk) through the salmon-fishing town of Westport. Once called “The Salmon Capital of the World,” and still a prime place for watching migrating gray whales, Westport is a busy port—and one of Washington’s few good surfing, clam-digging, and surf-kayaking beaches. The whole place comes to life during the Labor Day seafood festival, but any time of the year the best stop is Brady’s Oysters (360/268-0077), at the foot of the Hwy-105 bridge from Aberdeen, where you can buy fresh-shucked bivalves by the half gallon.
At the south edge of the peninsula, absorb more coastal character at the Tokeland Hotel (360/267-7006, $89-105), off Hwy-105 on the north shore of Willapa Bay, a truly historic landmark that has been welcoming visitors since the 1880s. Expect old-fashioned lodgings (shared baths), a cozy family-style dining room serving classic dishes (pot roast with mashed potatoes, and such), and unforgettable ambience.