Between Hoquiam and Raymond, US-101 cuts inland from the coast, while an alternative route, Hwy-105, loops to the west past miles of cranberry bogs (and occasional wild elk) through the salmon-fishing town of Westport. Once called “The Salmon Capital of the World,” and still a prime place for watching migrating gray whales, Westport is a busy port—and one of Washington’s few good surfing, clam-digging, and surf-kayaking beaches. The whole place comes to life during the Labor Day seafood festival, but any time of the year the best stop is Brady’s Oysters (360/268-0077), at the foot of the Hwy-105 bridge from Aberdeen, where you can buy fresh-shucked bivalves by the half gallon.

At the south edge of the peninsula, absorb more coastal character at the Tokeland Hotel (360/267-7006, $89-105), off Hwy-105 on the north shore of Willapa Bay, a truly historic landmark that has been welcoming visitors since the 1880s. Expect old-fashioned lodgings (shared baths), a cozy family-style dining room serving classic dishes (pot roast with mashed potatoes, and such), and unforgettable ambience.

Map of Pacific Coast through Southern Washington Coast.
Map of Pacific Coast through Southern Washington Coast.
Travel map of the Olympic Peninsula and the Coast
Olympic Peninsula and the Coast