On his way out, Ilijaz bought books to prepare himself for the entrance examination. He went home and closeted himself in his house to study. Days later, he achieved the highest possible score on the examination and was admitted to Sarajevo medical school. On July 5, 1983, he went to enroll, and the following day he left for the army. There was a time, not so long ago, when neurologists believed that the brain was immunoprivileged, meaning it was completely separate from the immune system’s lymphocytes; now doctors use the careful phrasing “immuno-different.” The blood-brain barrier (BBB) is a dense patchwork quilt of vessels that serve as gates, regulating the passage of substances, like bacteria, chemicals, and drugs, from the blood to the brain.36 Researchers have discovered that the BBB does allow for certain B-cells and T-cells to squeeze through, in a process called diapedesis, to do regular“checkups.” But this was no routine checkup. The immune cells it had let through, which were supposed to protect the body, were in mid-blitz. This was the evidence Dr. Najjar had needed: I was in the grip of some kind of autoimmune disease.

Oregon Trail

Following in the footsteps of pilgrims and pioneers, US‑20 takes in a little of everything during its two-lane trek from Oregon’s rugged coast to the glorious sea and sand of Cape Cod.


The Equality State

Most visitors to Wyoming have one thing in mind: Yellowstone National Park. This amazing spectacle, which our route takes us right through, is deservedly the state’s premier visitor attraction, but the rest of Wyoming holds a surprising variety of interesting places, from Wild West cow towns to the wide open spaces of the Great Plains.

The least populated of the 50 states, Wyoming has more wide-open space than just about anywhere else. If you like the idea of traveling for miles and miles without seeing anyone, then coming upon a crossroads outpost where the post office shares space with the general store and gas station, you’ll want to take the time to explore Wyoming.

Map of the Oregon Trail through Wyoming.

Map of the Oregon Trail through Wyoming.

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