viagra buy online Over the next weeks, the group of armed men and women from Ilijaz’s region grew to about a hundred. They established a base at a high point called Kragljivoda, where several village roads met the main road that stretched from Srebrenica down to the border town of Skelani and the bridge to Serbia. They dug trenches on either side of the road and constructed a real front line. Ilijaz’s neighbor, the minaret builder ?efik Mand?ic, came to lead the “troops.” A large post office building and a smaller building that had housed a market sat at the forest crossroads. From the windows of the post office building, Ilijaz and the others looked across the Drina River to Serbia and saw tanks firing toward them from the road that zigzagged up Tara Mountain. During the war’s quiet moments—and war has many of these—they sat on the balcony playing cards. In contrast to the medical workers across the front line in Srebrenica, those in Bratunac have ample supplies and can transfer the severely wounded to hospitals. However, they, too, labor under shellfire and treat wounded people daily. This is not the first time that butchered bodies have arrived after an offensive launched by the Srebrenicans. I then sit up again and try to get out of bed, but the guardrail stops me. The doctor lowers the guardrail and hands me a pail, possibly because she believes I’m nauseous. I sway back and forth. I lie back down with the pail between my legs. The doctor takes it from me and places it by my head.

Loneliest Road

The backbone of America runs from sea to shining sea, passing through 11 states and some of the country’s most magnificent landscapes.


Ely (pop. 4,255; pronounced “EE-lee”) is a sprawling crossroads community where US-6, US-50, and US-93 all intersect. For nearly 100 years, Ely was a boomtown flush with the wealth from the massive Kennecott-owned Liberty Pit copper mines, Nevada’s largest and longest-lived mining venture, which produced over a billion dollars’ worth of ore while employing nearly 10,000 people at its peak during the 1950s. After the main mines closed down in 1982, the railway that had shuttled pay dirt from the mines to the smelter was abandoned—track, stock, and depot. In 1985 the entire railroad operation was turned into Nevada Northern Railway Museum (775/289-2085, closed Tues.), and now you can take a 90-minute tour aboard the Ghost Train (around $25), pulled by a 1910 Baldwin Steamer locomotive. The train leaves from the depot at the north end of East 11th Street and uses a ton of coal and 1,000 gallons of water.

Ely’s other main stop is the White Pine Public Museum (2000 Aultman St./US-50, 775/289-4710, seasonal hours, free), which has a wide-ranging collection of minerals, mining implements, and Pony Express memorabilia on display.

Along with extensive mining history, Ely has motels, gas stations, the only supermarket for the next 200 miles east, and dozens of vivid, building-sized murals depicting various aspects of the town’s heritage. The heart of town is a neon-rich few blocks of Aultman Street (US-50) west of the US-93 junction, centering upon the landmark Hotel Nevada (775/289-6665, $29 and up), with its giant cowboy and neon-lit slot machines. Inside there are real (as opposed to video) slot machines, pool tables, a café, and a bar. For a bit more peace and quiet try Jailhouse Motel (211 5th St., 775/289-3033, $45 and up), a block north of Aultman.

For food, Ely has three coffee shops along US-50, plus the chance to down a milk shake at the soda fountain inside Economy Drug (775/289-4929), at Aultman and 7th Streets.

The route east of Ely toward Great Basin National Park is an official “scenic route,” rolling across sagebrush plains and climbing over the Schell Creek and Snake Mountain ranges through dense groves of pine and juniper.


Economy Drug (696 Aultman St.)

Jailhouse Motel (211 5th St.)

White Pine Public Museum (2000 Aultman St.)

Nevada Northern Railway Museum (1100 Ave. A)

Hotel Nevada (501 Aultman St.)

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