“The Muslims got their strength back from the convoy,” a Serbian soldier tells a Reuters reporter. JUST AS EXCITING AS THE WIN IS TO THE SREBRENICANS, it is humiliating, tragic, and highly symbolic to the Serbs. Four days after the offensive, on January 11, at 11 A.M., after morning rounds, the loud buzz of a lowflying airplane shakes the hospital building. Ilijaz knows the sound. Upstairs in the operating room, a nurse cracks that they’d better prepare for casualties. “Others say they left their wives. I left my heart,” he tells his colleagues again and again.

The Great Northern

Following US‑2 through wide-open spaces is guaranteed to bring new meaning to the expression “getting away from it all.”

Fort Peck Indian Reservation

The sprawling Fort Peck Indian Reservation, Montana’s second-largest, stretches for nearly 100 miles along US-2, and for 50 miles north. Home to 6,800 Assiniboine and Yanktonai Sioux, but co-owned by non-Indians as a result of unscrupulous land dealings encouraged by the 1887 Dawes Act, the reservation offers few sights or services to outsiders. Travelers interested in tribal life can best experience it at weekend events like the annual Red Bottom celebrations (held every June in Frazer, west of Wolf Point); the Wild Horse Stampede rodeo in July, the oldest rodeo in Montana; or the Wadopana PowWow (early Aug.).

The latter two events are held in Wolf Point, the reservation’s largest town (and location of the only Amtrak station for miles!). Wolf Point is also the site of the Montana Cowboy Hall of Fame (218 3rd Ave. S., Suite C, 406/653-3800) and home to cafés and taverns like the Missouri Breaks Brewing Company (326 Main St., 406/653-1467), where you can get freshly brewed coffees in the morning, good breakfasts and lunch, smoothies and milk shakes all day, plus a range of fresh-brewed beers. There are a few motels, including Sherman Inn (200 E. Main St., 406/653-1100, $85 and under), which has clean rooms and a decent restaurant.

Another 55 miles east of Wolf Point down US-2, nearly at the North Dakota border, Culbertson (pop. 768) is a quiet town with a disproportionate number of farm-implement and feed dealers. Located a mile east of town, the Montana Visitor Center (406/787-6320) houses a good local history museum.

Sherman Inn (200 E. Main St.)
Missouri Breaks Brewing Company (326 Main St.)
Montana Cowboy Hall of Fame (218 3rd Ave. S., Suite C)
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