Since US-83’s route across northern South Dakota doesn’t offer much stimulation for the senses, if you’ve got the time to spare, detour west along the Missouri River, leaving North Dakota via the Lewis and Clark Highway, Hwy-1806. This scenic route brings you across the middle of Standing Rock Indian Reservation, which falls mainly in South Dakota but stretches about 30 miles over the border.
On Hwy-1806, at tiny Kenel, a historical marker points out the site of fur-trading Fort Manuel, where Lewis and Clark’s guide Sacagawea may have died of fever in 1812, at the age of 25. South of Kenel, the road runs straight south, away from the winding Missouri River and toward imposing 2,200-foot Rattlesnake Butte. After 20 miles or so, you’ll cross on sweeping bridges over Lake Oahe’s huge bays, then roll into Mobridge (pop. 3,574), the biggest town between the North and South Dakota capitals. (The town’s name stems from a hasty telegraph message transmitted in 1906 by an operator who needed a quick and clear reference to the area. He chose, at random, Mo for the Missouri River, and bridge, referring to the one then under construction by the Milwaukee Railroad.)
Mobridge, once a village of the Arikara tribe, is heavily dependent on the anglers who come to pluck the lunkers, walleye, and even 20-pound northern pike from Lake Oahe, here many miles wide. The area’s earlier history and Native American culture is celebrated on the walls inside the Scherr-Howe Arena (Mon.–Fri. only; free), at 212 Main Street, where bold 16- by 20-foot murals depict Sioux history and culture.
The most interesting food option is Rick’s Award-Winning Chili and Burgers Cafe (605/845-5300), in downtown Mobridge at the end of Main Street. Alternatives include the equally self-descriptive Missouri River Pins & Pizza (605/845-3924), where the typically wedged-into-downtown Plains bowling alley creates the right vibe for you to appreciate the place’s filling (if not thrilling) pizza offerings. The Wrangler Motor Inn ($50 and up; 605/845-3641), located a half mile west on US-12 at 820 W. Grand Crossing, is the best overnight stop on the stretch, with two dining rooms, a coffee shop, and a heated pool. The Super 8 (605/845-7215), also on US-12 West, is a little cheaper.