Though many dismiss it as the West Coast equivalent of Newark, New Jersey, the hardworking city of Oakland (pop. 400,000) is actually a lively and intriguing place. The main attraction for visitors is its waterfront Jack London Square, honoring the city’s favorite prodigal son. Covering a few blocks at the foot of Broadway, the complex contains a large bookstore, a couple of restaurants, an ancient log cabin supposedly lived in by Jack London in the Yukon Territory, and last but not least, the truly funky Heinold’s First and Last Chance, a rickety old saloon that’s the only survivor from the waterfront’s wild past.
Oakland’s other main draw is the excellent Oakland Museum (closed Mon. & Tues.; $6; 510/238-2200), housed in a landmark modernist ziggurat on the east edge of downtown, at 1000 Oak Street. Inside, exhibits cover everything from California’s natural history to the photography of Dorothea Lange. An in-depth look at the state’s popular culture is highlighted by a lively display of Hollywood movie posters, neon signs, jukeboxes, and classic cars and motorcycles.