At roughly the geographical center of the state, Brainerd (pop. 13,178) is a medium-sized Minnesota town that played a starring role in that offbeat Coen brothers movie, Fargo. The 4th of July in Brainerd is a big event, with marching bands, rock bands, and parades—plus a rubber duck race down the Mississippi River.
A huge Potlatch paper mill along the banks of the river notwithstanding, the economy of this part of the state benefits greatly from recreation. In Minnesota this means lakes: over 400 within a 50-mile radius, with over 150 resorts or campgrounds on their shores. Brainerd, the commercial center of it all, began life in 1871 when the Northern Pacific Railroad chose to cross the Mississippi River here. The rail yards are still in the heart of town beneath the giant water tower, which resembles a Las Vegas–style medieval castle. The historic downtown has been badly “malled” by outlying shopping plazas, but among the discount merchandisers, pawn shops, and empty storefronts there are still a few points of light, such as the Front Street Cafe (218/ 828-1102), at 616 Front Street, across the tracks from that faux piece of Camelot. With free seconds on soups, mile-high meringue on the pies, and unbelievably low prices—plus a collection of commemorative plates to which words cannot do justice—the Front Street Cafe sets a hip standard for square meals.
West of the river, don’t be put off by the unprepossessing location of the West Side Cafe (218/829-5561) at 801 W. Washington Street: the fact that it’s in a gas station doesn’t detract a whit from the fact that it serves some of the best pies for miles around, in a setting akin to an old Woolworth’s lunch counter. From seasonal rhubarb to tangy cherry to unusual carrot, none is too sweet, and the superb flaky crusts are baked to a full golden brown—for a dollar and change, it doesn’t get much better than this. Open daily 6 am–10 pm, they serve unlimited cups of coffee for 75 cents an hour—with weekly rates available on request.
East of downtown Brainerd, the Paul Bunyan statue seen in the movie Fargo has moved to a new home at Paul Bunyan Land (daily in summer; 218/764-2524) at 17553 Hwy-18, part of the 35-acre kid-friendly rural-history theme park called This Old Farm.
Many chain motels are clustered on Hwy-210 heading west out of Brainerd, while there’s an EconoLodge and a Holiday Inn right on the GRR (Hwy-371) on the town’s southern outskirts. The cheapest decent sleep in town is the aging Riverview Motel (218/829-8871), at 324 Washington Street, smack-dab in the tacky commercial stretch just west of the Mississippi crossing.
For a free vacation planner and complete guide to the area’s family-oriented resort accommodations—or simply the latest local weather report—contact the Brainerd Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce’s information center (800/450-2838), 124 N 6th Street.
