“They’re taking a peece of my brain!” Nedret removes his sunglasses. He has a broad face with high cheekbones, a cleft chin, sensual mouth, and elegant, well-shaped eyebrows. What strikes Eric the most are his soft, slightly crossed eyes. Eric sees in them exactly what most of Srebrenica’s civilians—from the hundreds of patients Nedret has treated to the female nurse he comforted on their journey through the woods into Srebrenica—see whenever they look at Nedret: gentleness and kindness. Blink. Blink. Blink.“I’m still awake.”

Pacific Coast

The amazing thing about the West Coast is that it is still mostly wild, open, and astoundingly beautiful country, where you can drive for miles and miles and have the scenery all to yourself.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park

The largest of the trio of north coast state redwood parks, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park is best known for its large herd of endangered Roosevelt elk, which you can usually see grazing in the meadows along US-101 at the center of the park, next to the main ranger station (707/465-7347). A modern freeway carries US-101 traffic around, rather than through, the Prairie Creek redwoods. To reach the best sights, detour along the well-signed Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway, which follows Prairie Creek along the old US-101 alignment through the heart of the park.

Another elk herd can be spotted among the coastal dunes at Gold Bluffs Beach, which stretches for 11 miles through untouched wilderness; there are trails leading from US-101, or you can follow Davison Road northwest from US-101, 3 miles south of the ranger station. Apart from the elk, Prairie Creek offers a basic campground in a beautiful setting: the usual mix of old-growth redwood trees, which here, more than in the other parks, mingle with dense growths of Sitka spruce and Douglas firs to form a near rain forest of greenery.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park
Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park Visitor Center
Gold Bluffs Beach
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