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He had clarified that the pattern of reactivity was more intense in the hippocampus of the rat brain, but this was only the beginning. A far more difficult question now arose: Which receptors were these antibodies targeting? Through a combination of trial and error, plus a few educated guesses about which receptors are most common in the hippocampus, Dr. Dalmau and his colleagues eventually identified the target. Using a kidney cell line bought from a commercial lab that came with no receptors on their surfaces at all, a kind of“blank slate,” his lab introduced DNA sequences that direct the cells to make certain types of receptors, allowing the lab to control which receptors were available for binding. Dalmau chose to have them express only NMDA receptors, after figuring out that those were the most likely to have been present in high volume in the hippocampus. Sure enough, the antibodies in the cerebrospinal fluid of the four patients bound to the cells. There was his answer: the culprits were NMDA-receptor-seeking antibodies.
Starting at the Statue of Liberty and winding up at free-wheeling Key West, these almost 2,000 miles of roadway run within earshot—if not sight—of the Atlantic Ocean.
The northernmost stretches of the New Jersey shore are not exactly appealing, and visitors bound for the beaches and vacation spots farther south turn a blind eye to the industrial blight. The region has given the world much, from Vaseline (produced in Perth Amboy) to Bruce Springsteen songs (Asbury Park), and MTV’s “Jersey Shore” (Seaside Heights). There are a couple of intriguing Victorian-era resorts like Spring Lake and Avon-by-the-Sea. The attractions increase the farther south you go.
The middle stretch of the Jersey shore is actually the quietest, with the million-acre Pinelands National Reserve (609/894-7300, daily, free) covering the inland area with forest and wetlands, and the coastal Long Beach Island dotted with sleepy little fishing and retirement communities. The biggest sight hereabouts is at the northern tip of the island: Barnegat Lighthouse (609/494-2016, daily during summer, $3 adults), “Old Barney,” whose image appears on personalized New Jersey license plates.
Barnegat Lighthouse State Park
Pinelands National Reserve (Forked River, NJ 08731)