Medical ethics in time of armed conflict is identical to medical ethics in time of peace… The primary obligation of the physician is his professional duty; in performing his professional duty, the physician’s supreme guide is his conscience. The Doctors Without Borders headquarters in the Bosnian capital, Sarajevo, was burned and looted. The newly fledged Bosnian army, loyal to the Bosnian government, had managed to keep control of the city, but Serb nationalist forces ringed its heights, shooting and shelling at the city below. All MSF internationals had pulled out for safety reasons not long after the start of the war. What remained of the MSF mission was its local staff members, who’d relocated their office to the civilian hospital, the biggest and most advanced in all of Bosnia, and alerted Eric in Belgrade that it had a critical shortage of kidney dialysis fluid. Eric sent his translator combing through the chemical laboratories of Serbia looking for the exact type and concentration of fluid that would work in the hospital’s machine. If the hospital had to stop providing dialysis, then those in the capital who had kidney failure and depended on the procedure to filter dangerous toxins from their bloodstreams would die. muscle relaxer robaxin

Appalachian Trail

This driving route parallels the hiking trail, from the top of New England to the heart of Dixie, taking you through continuous natural beauty—without the sweat, bugs, or blisters.

Harpers Ferry

Climbing the steep slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Harpers Ferry (pop. 286) embodies the industrial and political history of the early United States. Protected since 1963 as a national park, its many well-preserved wood, brick, and stone buildings are palpable reminders of early American enterprise: Besides the country’s first large factory, first canal, and first railroad, scenic Harpers Ferry saw abolitionist John Brown’s 1859 rebellion against slavery, and it was later a strategic site during the Civil War. Harpers Ferry was also home to Storer College, an African American college that operated here from the 1860s until 1955.

Small museums, housed in separate buildings along Shenandoah and High Streets along the riverfront in the “Lower Town,” trace the various strands of the town’s past. From the Shenandoah River, the Appalachian Trail (AT) winds south down what the third president called “one of the most stupendous scenes in Nature,” Jefferson’s Rock. Crossing the Potomac River to the north, the AT climbs up to Maryland Heights for more spectacular vistas.

Especially in summer, when cars are banned from lower Harpers Ferry, the best first stop is the small visitors center (304/535-6029, daily, $5) above the town along US-340. Park here and take one of the frequent free shuttles down to the historic area. Although most of Harpers Ferry is preserved as a historic site, there is considerable pressure to “develop” surrounding lands, so get here while it’s still nice. The eastern portions along the Potomac riverfront have remained in private hands, and here you can indulge your taste for fast food, wax museums, and schlocky souvenirs. There’s excellent cycling, a couple of companies offer white-water rafting trips, and for another sort of adventure you can head down to the very cute, red clapboard depot and hop onboard one of the Amtrak/MARC trains, which serve Washington, D.C., on a very limited schedule. To get the most out of a visit, stay overnight at the lovingly restored, circa-1790s, Federal-style, brick-fronted Jackson Rose Bed and Breakfast (1167 W. Washington St., 304/535-1528, $135 and up).

Harpers Ferry

Jackson Rose Bed and Breakfast (1167 W. Washington St.)

Harpers Ferry National Historical Park Visitors Center

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